This report is about the hood i.e. Some notes on its pattern creation as well as the sewing of the hood.
What is foremost is the estimation of the neck line of circumference of the garment. You are sewing the hood to the garment and this makes sense. Thus the first estimation is the neck circumference of the garment and divide this outline by two.
Create then a rectangle with this estimation as the width multiplied by the estimation from the base of the neck to the crown of the head as the length. You can add 2-3 cm to the width measurement. This is the estimation you want the hood to expand beyond the eyes. Curve the back appropriately.
Hood
This latter pattern is not exact. Other more exact formula is to place the back neck line of the pattern against the front and mark off the neck line. In this way, you have the exact neck line of the garment. Thus when you create the pattern, you have the exact line at the neck; the exact curve foremost up the back of the head.
From the neck point at the town front, quantum up the length from the gorge of the neck to the head crown. An foremost point to note is the eye line point which should be marked off on this 'length' line. Note then the actual length from the throat to this eye line mark. Note this mark and call it X. From X, quantum to the left, the amount that the hood extends beyond the eyes and then to the right, the length to the back of the head. Mark this point and gradually curve this latter point into the neck area that you have marked off previously.
Curve the line joining the back of the hood and the top of the head. A radius of 6-8cm is convenient but it is a style choice. You can see at the front the throat must curve upwards to actual face level. create a convenient curving line from the throat/gorge point to the eye level area and then curve inwards to the top again.
Remember how the hood works- it covers the face ; it is a function of the height from throat to the top of the head. It is also a 3d shape extending from the back of head to the front over the forehead and almost beyond the eyes. The line at the back of head is a style line but should be circular with a radius of approx 6- 8cm. Remember too the town seam at the top of head down to the town back. Note also the curving at the front on the hood pattern from the throat/gorge outwards to the face and eye levels and then upwards to the head top.
What is created now is half the overall pattern for the hood. Add proper seam allowance for the neck area and other seams. Seam allowance for neck is smaller than other seam allowances. create 4 patterns, two halves for the hood shell and two halves for the lining. Thus cut out two of these patterns and two more then for the lining.
With right sides together, sew the hood shell pieces together. Then sew the lining pieces together right side to right side. Snip into the seam allowance at the curves at quarterly intervals. The imagine for this is that it reduces stress and takes away the tightness in the seam at these points. This gives drive and durableness to the hood.
Then with right sides together, sew the lining and hood together. Remember to turn the seam allowance of the lining inwards before sewing. Then the final stage is to sew the hood to the neck of the bodice piece.
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